I love stock. It took me a long time to get to this point. I used to hate the smell of it simmering away at home as a child. I would demand my mum turn it off as it “stunk” up the house. I think it’s the elimination of waste. The thriftiness of it. It’s like making my own breadcrumbs and how much better my meatballs or mac’n'cheese are because of it.
I think my change of heart towards stock came about when I realised it was the main ingredient (after rice) that made risotto. This happened at university when my best mate Claire, used to make our favourite pumpkin and bacon risotto on the evenings I would go round to her place to watch Friends, Sex and the City and Buffy (if I managed to stay up late enough for Buffy’s late 10:30pm screening time). Claire’s recipe was a fabulously simple one, perfect university food. A tin of good pumpkin soup, onion, oil, bacon friend till crispy, arborio rice, stock or water depending on what was in the cupboard. All very straightforward and tasty.
Fast forward 10 years or so and I’m living in here in Sydney, and discovering the difference a really good stock can make to basics like soup and risotto and other dishes. I don’t always have time to make my own stock, but I’m glad when I do. I always find it homely, and such a reassuring task.
There is no real recipe to make stock, and I’ve always just chucked in what I have. This week it was inspired by a Thirlmere spatchcock I found buried in the freezer, then thawed, a brown onion, a tomato, a bayleaf or two, couple of stumpy carrots, whole peppercorns all chucked in and covered with fresh water, bought to the boil, scum scraped off, then simmered for a couple of hours. I then strain my stock through a chinoise (just a fancy sieve) lined with muslin. Other times I just use raw bones, sometimes I roast them first, other times I don’t. All depends on the day…I always try to freeze half of whatever I make in an ice cube tray for use later. I find it easy to melt that way and much easier to store.
However the way I make my pumpkin and bacon risotto has changed. These days I use real pumpkins, and just roast them, then mush them, then stir through the risotto. I also use the BEST bacon I can find, and am proud to obtain it from my mate Tim at Urban Food Market. It’s now very rare that I would have tinned pumpkin soup in my cupboard!
I’ve been sick for days. It’s all Stormie’s fault for bringing home a cold. In my pregnant state the realisation that I can’t take any drugs to relieve the symptoms is a blow that means rest, fluids, and more rest are the only solution. After two and a half days at home, I’m starting to feel better. So much better that I feel the urge to bake!
Empty cupboards, however, mean extremely limited choice. One of the changes in lifestyle we’ve experienced since we’ve moved is not having access to well stocked supermarkets in handy locations close to home, so we’ve come to rely on online shopping. This has two advantages: someone else has to carry the groceries up our five flights of stairs, and we actually save money cause I don’t pick up random stuff..but it also means I don’t restock my cupboards as often.
I’m pretty sure I’ve blogged biscotti (actually it appears I haven’t?) before, and raved about how much I love them, but just to remind you; I LOVE BISCOTTI. They’re easy, customisable and low fat to boot!
This recipe comes from the legend that is David Lebovitz. If you’ve not come across The esteemed Mr. Lebovitz before, he is a legendary baker, dessert maker and author, from the U.S. living in Paris. He is expert in all things dessert like, including ice cream and cookies. I bought his recent book “Ready for Dessert” as it’s a round up of his best and favorite recipes as well as giving a run down on some dessert basics. If you’re into baking and desserts it’s definitely a book you must get.
So I looked in the cupboard and saw that I had flour, some brown sugar, chocolate chips, eggs and cocoa, and a few dried cranberries…so I adapted the following recipe:
Peppery Chocolate- Cranberry (originally Cherry) Biscotti
- 3/4 cup dried cherries (I used dried cranberries)
- 2 tablespoons kirsch,grappa or rum ( I used brandy)
- 2 cups plain flour
- 3/4 cups good quality cocoa
- 1 teaspoon bicarb soda/baking soda
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 3 large eggs (it adds 1 egg for glaze but I left this out)
- 1 cup sugar ( is used a combo of caster and brown sugar)
- 1/2 teaspoon almond essence ( I used vanilla)
- 1 cup almonds, toasted and chopped (I had no nuts)
- 3/4 cup chocolate chips ( I use dark choc chips)
- 2 tablespoons coarse crystal sugar for sprinkling (I left this out)
Pre heat the oven to 175° and line a baking tray with baking paper
In a small saucepan combine your dried fruit and chosen alcohol. Bring to boil, remove from heat, and let cool to room temperature
In a medium bowl sift together flour, cocoa, bicarb, salt and pepper
In a stand mixer, whisk together your eggs and sugar and vanilla/almond extract
Gradually add the flour, then add dried fruit and their soaking liquid, nuts and chocolate chips and mix just until dough comes together
On a lightly floured surface divide the dough in half. Using damp hands (I always have trouble with this step), shape each half into a log about 8cm in diameter. Pop the logs lengthwise on the baking tray. Use damp hands to flatten the tops of the logs.
Optional step
Whisk remaining egg and generously brush the logs with the egg wash then give a second coat. Sprinkle each log with 1 tablespoon of the crystalised sugar.
Bake, rotating baking sheet half way through cooking, until logs feel firm, about 25 minutes (I forgot to rotate them). Remove from oven and leave to cool for about 15 minutes and reduce heat of oven to 150°
Transfer logs to chopping board, and using sharp serrated bread knife (this really does help) cut into 1.5cm slices (or do the best you can as the slices can crumble)
Spread the slices cut side up back on baking tray and pop back in oven for up to 30 minutes (closer to 30 if the slices are thicker), flip them mid way through baking (Now this one is important). Remove and cool. They’ll continue to firm up as they cool.
Try not to gobble too many before they cool completely
Note: You don’t have to add the pepper.
Also, I just realised that this is my 200th post!
First, apologies for my absence. I’ve been so busy at work, have been off here and there (including New Zealand) and have some other news which I’ll get to a bit later. But first, Logan Brown in beautiful Wellington, New Zealand.
I was over in Welly for the annual conference of my Kiwi work equivalents. My second year attending, this year I made sure that I had some extra time to go exploring this cool capital. I arrived on Friday evening, checked into my hotel and settled in for the Royal Wedding. Saturday, I set off exploring, hitting the Te Papa Museum, which included a spectacular exhibition of photography by Brian Brake. I ate a light lunch at Floridita’s, a well known and very popular cafe. I was lucky enough to his Floridita’s twice. Once for this light lunch and once for a DELICIOUS breakfast. Well worth a visit. For lunch I had this simple, and perfectly portioned linguine with lemon, artichoke and chilli, and the yummiest locally brewed ginger beer
On my final evening in Wellington, I was lucky enough to visit the renowned Logan Brown. This restaurant has won a gazillion awards over a few years and they’re all well deserved. We popped in for an early dinner (we had just finished up the conference and were all flying out at various civilised and not so civilised hours the next day) and got to try out their unbelievably good value “Bistro Menu”
To enjoy the Bistro Menu you have to book, and then be out by 7:30pm, there doesn’t appear to be the same restrictions on lunch. It’s available for lunch and dinner 7 days, at the grand total of NZ$39.50. This is about at today’s rate, AU$29.50 for a three course meal. STUPID.
The set menu changes frequently, and gives you a choice of two dishes per course, and all dietary requirements are treated with respect and good humour.
On this evening, for entree we had a choice of: Grilled haloumi with tomato bruschetta, chorizo & rocket or Spiced chickpea veloute with crispy lamb shoulder and harissa oil. Apologies for the dark pics. It was dark. I chose the veloute with the lamb as it was a chilly night and the perfect way to warm up.
We then moved onto mains: Pan roasted Tarakihi with calamari bhaji orange, I had the fish which was so fresh it was practically jumping!
Or watercress or braised pork belly with sage gnocchi, sweet and sour cabbage and caramelised apples:
We were pretty damn happy at this point. The service was impeccable, the ambience great, and the food and company wonderful.
Can you see why I was so excited about my $29.50 dinner??? Amazing.
Dessert, I wanted both, but could only have one….Poached tamarillos with warmed gingerbread and limoncello marscapone or, what I chose which was the Feijoa donuts with vanilla parfait and soft cream.
These donuts were HOT, and there was two filled with deliciously hot Feijoa pulpy jam, and one non filled donut. God it was good. Totally could’ve eaten it all over again.
This little jaunt across the ditch may be last for a while, and the lapse of blog posts, has been caused by the lovely news that my partner and I are having a baby. So I apologise in advance for future intermittent blogging, while I get busy at work, help organise the 2011 Australian Foodbloggers’ Conference and grow a baby.
Logan Brown
192 Cuba St,
Wellington, New Zealand
enquiries@loganbrown.co.nz
http://www.loganbrown.co.nz/
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When I lived in Surry Hills a teeny tiny new cafe opened up just around the corner from my house. It’s called Remy and Lee’s. Remy and Lee are a lovely young couple from Perth. Remy is an old hand at cafe’s having worked at places like Bills. They opened this teeny cafe and serve delicious morsels like Black Star pastries and pies, Lee’s famous bircher muesli, and excellent coffee. I miss them a lot. It’s a friendly, neighbourhood joint where all sorts of people hang out, from hipsters to local mums and bubs.
A while back, Lee gave me her basic muffin recipe. I recently found it floating under my bed, and decided to whip up a batch to cheer up my other half who’s had a killer week at work.
This is a dairy heavy recipe, so if you’re not into dairy, don’t bother! You can also vary this recipe with whatever flavourings you want:
I made peanut butter and strawberry jam, you could do any kind of berry, or banana (of course when they are no longer $14.99 per kg!), ditch the sugar and add grated cheese and vegemite or simply keep an eye out on Remy and Lee’s twitter stream as Lee tweets the muffins she makes each day!
Lee’s Basic Muffin Recipe
- 2 – 4 eggs
- 1 cup natural yoghurt
- 1 cup buttermilk
- 1 cup full cream milk
- 450g Self Raising Flour
- 250g Raw sugar
- 125g melted butter
Makes 6 massive muffins or many more normal sized ones
Mix wet ingredients into dry
Add flavourings
Don’t overmix
Mix through peanut butter.
Place mix in tin, add dollop of jam, then add lid
Bake at around 180º for about 40 minutes or until golden and skewer comes out clean
There are some opportunities that present themselves but rarely. Opportunities you just can’t say no to. Recently, one of those opportunities landed in my inbox courtesy of Electrolux. Dinner at Quay with a demonstration/masterclass with Chef Peter Gilmore. The essentials: Peter Gilmore along with Tetsuya have custom built kitchens using the latest technology from Electrolux. This was an opportunity for Gilmore to demonstrate the use of these appliances in the restaurant.
We were treated with NV Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée as we milled around the stunning room taking in the twin vistas of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Sydney Opera House. Vistas I failed to capture as I enjoyed the canapes and Champagne! But really the most important feature of the night was the food: the beautiful, expertly handled food.
The highlights for me started with the BUTTER POACHED marron. Yes, BUTTER POACHED. Oh Yes. Once more? BUTTER POACHED. Sealed Sous Vide style with butter and steamed for mere minutes. Reminds me of a similar technique Tetsuya used with some fish, cooking it covered in glad wrap in a 90º-100º oven. According to Gilmore, the advantage of cooking the delicate shellfish like this is not losing the juices to any poaching liquid as the butter naturally seals the marron.
The Marron was paired with Natural Selection Theory Pear Cider, Coromandel Valley (makers of my fave quaffing wine)
If this was it, if this was the extent of the demonstration and subsequent meal, with the view and the company I would’ve been perfectly content. But there was so much more to come.
The next dish to be demonstrated was another POACHED in BUTTER: BUTTER POACHED Coturnix quail breast, pumpernickel, morel and ethical foie gras pudding, walnuts, quinoa, truffle custard and milk skin:
The quail was matched with a 2008 Terravin Pinot Noir from Marlborough, NZ
I think by this stage we were all rendered speechless by the lushness of the individual ingredients: The ethical foie gras, the new season chestnuts, MORE BUTTER, the truffle infused custard…oh my….Gilmore gave us an outline of how the ethical foie gras was produced, and how it’s used in the restaurant as more of a flavouring. It’s produced just once a year, when the geese naturally gorge themselves before the cold winter weather sets in, and in preparation for migration. Regardless of the merits or otherwise of this new style production of foie gras, the dish as a whole was a feast of textures from the crunchy “popped quinoa” to the spongy cakiness of the pumpernickel, to the rosy pinkness of the quail.
The next and last highlight for me was dessert: Those who follow on twitter would know that my background profile image is the 8 texture chocolate cake from the old menu at Quay. Not as glam or famous as the Snow Egg, but unbelievably rich and lush..So I was ecstatic to see a chocolate based dessert on our menu: Preserved Wild Cherries, Coconut Cream, Chuao Chocolate Crumble, Cherry Juice and Chocolate Sorbet…um, yes more please!
Dessert was paired with Claude Courtois Vin de Mistelle, Sologne
As you can see from the picture below, I thoroughly enjoyed dessert. It’s diminutive size hid its powerful flavours.
If I’d been at home, I would’ve picked up the beautifully sculpted dish (it had hand/finger grooves along it’s underside) and licked it clean. But I kept my head, and managed to get home un-disgraced.
Quay is one of those singular food experiences where it all comes together: The food, the ambiance, the views. If you get an opportunity to go and experience the magic take it. It’s worth every second.
I enjoyed this experience courtesy of Electrolux
Quay Restaurant
Overseas Passenger Terminal
The Rocks
Sydney
02 9251 5600
Reservations@quay.com.au
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